After 6 flights (each way!) and multiple hours in airport terminals, we have just returned from a spectacular visit to the very remote Falkland Islands off the tip of Argentina. More than 12,000 penguins reside on Sea Lion Island, our home for much of our stay. Healthy colonies of massive elephant seals and aggressive sea lions also pup and molt here. Conditions range from cloudless sunny skies to brutal sand storms with gail force winds and limited visibility -- often during the course of the same day.